Hawksmoor Bacon Double Cheeseburger
What they say:
Two beef patties, smoked bacon chaps, Comte cheese, barbecue sauce and bread and butter pickles.
Hawksmoor’s current third burger has been around for a while now and it is actually quite special. In fact it is almost perfect. More on the “almost” later…
When you go to Hawksmoor you know the meat is going to be perfect, and it is no different when it comes to their burgers.
Unlike steak, it’s sad to say that there is no option offered to have the patty cooked medium but apart from that you get two excellent patties of fairly coarse-ground dry aged beef. As we as that you get bacon, mayo, BBQ sauce and cheese. A Bacon Double Cheeseburger.
I must admit that seeing the inclusion of BBQ sauce baffled me initially.
It isn’t always great and therefore not a favourite of mine. It can sometimes spoil a burger with its clawy sweetness.
The cheese selected is comté, a fairly hard and mild French cheese, and the mustard mayo intrigued me. Topping all of this off was pickles. Before it arrived I imagined it to be contained within brioche and I wasn’t wrong.
So it duly arrived looking all kinds of fabulous and after taking some photos for your viewing pleasure, I got stuck into the good bit – the eating.
The very first bite hit me with all manner of flavour.
The bacon was really strong, as bacon really ought to be, and the BBQ sauce pleased me for once.
It was applied quite conservatively which was good, and it worked exceptionally well with the pickles.
The build was such that the mustard mayo was at the bottom, two beef patties each topped with bacon and cheese, and then the sauce and pickles were at the top.
That mustard mayo stood out across all these flavours and gave this burger a distinct, unique, but not overpowering taste.
This was a burger that would easily be recognisable in a blind taste test.
I really enjoyed the sharpness of the pickles being tempered by the BBQ sauce throughout, and this was one of the few times I felt that it actually benefited and even elevated a burger build.
The excellent beef was extremely juicy and full of flavour.
However, that meat juice, along with the sauce brings me back to the “almost” at the beginning of this review.
The heel of the bun is the weak link here as it was all but vanished into soggy nothingness by the end. It was nothing the old trick of turning it upside down couldn’t resolve but I was left thinking a more robust bun could be selected here and really make this perfect.
The pickles, which I must remind you were something I’d always pick out of a burger until meeting Burger Lad®, were inspired here.
Beautifully coloured for a start, but also punctuated the meal with incredibly satisfying crunches.
The cheese however, whilst lending its beautifully melted texture throughout, didn’t have a flavour punch as I might have hoped for.
The standard burger uses the raclette-esque Ogleshield, which is also a mild cheese but as perfect for melting as it gets. I might have been inclined to try something like Eppoises on this burger although the preparation would be trickier.
The excellent use of quantities throughout and the fact that the beef was coarse and not too tightly packed gave the impression that this was a lighter meal than it probably was.
That grind was visible throughout and the softness and flavour of the beef suggests a very good fat ratio.
It’s a complex enough build to be unique but also simple enough to be unfussy and hugely enjoyable.
It’s a bit of a winner if I’m honest and if they could pick a stronger bun to hold it all in, it would be pretty close to top mark perfection.
I will just end with a note on the bacon. This Bath chap is how bacon should be. Full of meaty flavour and no limpness whatsoever. Amazing stuff.